On having a change around of forks, i also had to change brakes, the old hopes are IS direct mount calipers and the 66rv fork i am using is post mount, so post mount fit brakes. This just happens to be the set of Juicy 3’s that came on the donor bike anyway with the 66rv all from 2007. So the Juicy range is not known for being that reliable in that period, and even from new they needed a bleed….
So after several years in a box the back brake was in need of a bleed (front was fine though) so instead of getting the bike shop to do it this time i will operate myself. Just need a bleed kit, last time i looked a few years back they where a bit steep then at £20, now they are RRP £39.99 official Avid bleed kit. Screw that, google time got it down to £34.99 from CRC, better but way over the top, bit more google-fu turned up these chaps here in the UK, Price only £12.99 posted, bargain, get one.Whats in the kit then, 100ml of dot5.1 fluid (enough for several bleeds) 1xT-10 torx bit for bleed screws, 1xpair of gloves, 1xelastic band, 2x syringes with adaptors and hose locks (red clamps) and very important a full sheet of “how to”I won’t go into full detail on this as the website has more information and tips better worded than what i will do. First step read the sheet properly, then read it again. I had already bled the rear brake and raced it, i learnt something from that, and the photos are from me doing the front brake yesterday. So fill syringe 1 with 15ml of fluid, screw into the caliper bleed hole, then attach the empty syringe to the lever/cylinder bleed hole. Push new fluid through, and watch all the junk purge from the system.That’s the easy bit, the Avid faffing about comes next, this involves the elastic band to hold the brake lever down(third hand) and sucking any trapped air from the system by locking off the cylinder to purge air from the caliper and hose, and then doing the same with the main cylinder, this is the part that mechanics hate, it’s not hard, but takes time. The rear brake took me around 45mins to do. I have never bled a brake before. The mistake i made, which i found out in my first practice run at a race was to not have the lever wound out enough, it clearly states in the Avid manual and the Epic sheet to not bleed with the levers or pad contact wound in. In my practice race run the lever pulled to the bar and the brake didn’t work, 10minute fix in the car-park and the brake was working very well indeed. Doing the front i just wound the lever out, just to be sure.Hopefully you can see in the picture all the cloudy junk in the old fluid. I left the pads in the caliper, and taking my time only had minor drips of fluid when i removed the syringes, it took me 30mins to do the front brake, take your time read the sheet, get it right first go. The kit lacks the pad spacers you get with an official Avid kit, and you get a T-10 bit over an T-10 key/wrench, but for a fraction of the price and you can use old brake pads as spacers anyway. It’s an easy to use, small kit that packs nicely away and will be going racing with me in case i need to work on the brakes, serious value for money, the Avid kit i have should also cover other Avid disc brakes.And when you are finished, dump the waste oil in a bottle, that’s my old fork oil in there as well, when it’s full go down the re-cycle centre and tip into the waste oil bin. Go to www.epicbleedsolutions.com for more information on kits and tips on bleeding.